时尚与艺术之间有着密不可分的关系——它们都拥有同样的生命之源,那就是创造力。从Dali到Frida,时尚界从未停止向艺术致敬,他们用时装的方式重现了艺术史上的经典名作, 对他们而言,艺术是透过服装来表达的,时尚被赋予了诗的意境。而Iris Van Herpen则认为“时尚”这个字眼就是过时的,它只是时装商业化的一部分。她从不追随时尚行业的“季节”概念,而是听从自己内在的艺术召唤。
从中世纪出现的不知名的装饰画家起,精美的时装、大量华丽的刺绣和品种繁多的纺织品,无不在影响着画家们,他们把时装完整地绘制在绘画作品当中。
1937年,艺术大师Dali为时装设计师Elsa Schiaparelli设计制作出了一顶高跟鞋型的超现实主义三角帽,还为Schiaparelli创制出了幻觉感空洞的面料。40年之后,当川久保玲在设计毛线衫时,采用了那种“空洞”,时装又重演了它本身的历史。
时装与艺术同时渗透到我们现代的生活当中,它们打破相互之间的分界线,继续保持着它们之间的相互联系。
2015年秋冬系列中, Valentino用精致的蕾丝重现Van Gogh笔下灿烂浪漫的《the Starry Night》;
Chanel用花呢布缝制的红黑格子与OttoDix画作《Portrait of the Journalist Sylvia von Harde》中的女记者十分相像,连两者的发型都如出一辙;
新锐设计师ChristopherKane的设计巧妙地结合了Egon Schiele的作品和那一抹飘逸的紫色:
设计师们从奇幻中发现美,用独特的方式和精湛的剪裁技艺表达情感、能量。将服装推到建筑、科技、艺术、人类学和哲学的高度,在时装中寻找“家”、探讨灵魂、思考迁徙与地域性。
A rest during the Flight to Egypt by Gerard David (1515) / Kim在Givenchy 2015春夏系列的秀上
Venus with Cupids by Salvador Dali (1925) / Kim在泰国
Eve by Moïse Kisling(1950) / Kim的自拍照
The Two Fridas by Frida Kahlo (1939) / Kim在她巴黎的单身Party上穿的Balmain连衣裙
Kaji of Gion Holding a Fan by Utagawa Kuniyoshi / Alexa在Vogue Met Gala的预热party上
Helen Dunham by John Singer Sargent (1892) / Alexa身穿Chanel参加2014年夏季皇家艺术展
Girl With a Hoop by Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1885) / Alexa为AG jeans拍摄的广告
The South Wind (also known as The Breezy Day) by Charles Courtney Curran (1917) / Alexa在Coachella 为《名利场》拍的照片
无论是大师级的古典作品还是当代时髦之作,几乎在整个今年的伦敦男装周上到处可见。La Jackson Pollock 在 Charles Jeffrey T台上打造的飞溅油漆图案,Topman用色彩在暗示西班牙大师Dali的超现实主义,深究其中的意义才会深知艺术与时装之间的趣味。
Sibling
Portrait of Baudouin of Burgundy by Jan Gossaert, Mabuse
Liam Hodges
Composition with Blue by Piet Mondrian (1937)
Man with His Head Full of Clouds by Salvador Dalí (1936)
Dunhill
Portrait of the Comte de Rasty by Giovanni Boldini
J.W. Anderson
Goya Series by John Baldessari (1997)
Charles Jeffrey
Number 12 by Jackson Pollock (1949)
Topman Design
The Discovery by Norman Rockwell (1956)
Mannequin (Barcelona Mannequin) by Salvador Dalí (1926)
无名 (I Shop Therefore I Am) by Barbara Kruger (1987)
Craig Green
John the Baptist (细节) by Caravaggio (1610)
Noli Me Tangere by Alonso Cano (1515)
Alexander McQueen
Russian Prisoner of War by Egon Schiele (1916)
Surface 137 by Giuseppe Capogrossi (1952)
Casely-Hayford
William Marshall Cazalet by John Singer Sargent (1902)
Alex Mullins
Relief Sponge by Yves Klein (1960)
Grace Wales Bonner
The Knight with his Hand on his Breast by El Greco (1584)
Coach
Portrait of Henry the Pious, Duke of Saxony by Lucas Cranach the Elder (1514)
Bobby Abley
Yellow Wrap by Yrjö Edelmann
Matthew Miller
Hotel Bedroom (细节) by Lucian Freud (1954)
The Glass House by René Magritte (1939)
KTZ
St. Dominic Praying by El Greco (1588)
Margaret Howell
The Four Sons of Dr. Linde, Edvard Munch (1903)
Clementina Austruther Thompson by John Singer Sargent (1889)