终于感到安全，我在Salvador机场拿出自己一直不敢带的手表，和手机，终于敢打电话。人生最基础的需求和最简单的事，在我的巴西旅途中是奢侈品。直到遇到麻烦，才知道其宝贵性。所谓的金砖四国：巴西没有安全性，印度没有制度性，俄罗斯没有乐观性，每去一个大国，我对中国更充满信心，因为走得远，对自己祖国更珍惜，就像是一个橡皮筋，拉得越深弹回越快。我在年少时，拼命要离开自己的家和祖国，越远越好，恨不得不讲中国话不吃中国餐不穿中国衣服，越成长越爱自己国家和家，我要回去的，我告诉自己！
Mika身上具备保守奥地利女孩和狂野冒险的骑士精神，我很欣赏：她爱上一个素未谋面的巴西男孩，网上沟通了很长时间，使得她在巴西农村实习的时间多些乐趣，她夏日假期和男孩约好去亚马逊地区旅行，有非常原始的深林和鳄鱼毒蛇出没水域，比人还危险，我让她一有网络就告诉我她的安全，在巴西消失个人太轻松，没人当回事儿！
虽然凌晨睡觉，我还是伴随朝阳起床，感觉坏人昨晚这么折腾，应该起不来，就沿着河开始跑步，跑着跑着就又开始上山，看到村庄在脚下，农户都很简陋但涂着不同颜色，简单的美；有公鸡打鸣，小鸟在笼子里，很可笑折腾；如果不是担心安全，我会一直跑下去；回到修道院courtyard，望着教堂可以不同角度stretch；碰到一个老头（我非常受老头喜欢，能量小宇宙迸发特吸引有文化老头），和我用交杂着葡萄牙语，西班牙语，法语和德语沟通，就是不懂英语，即使如此我也听懂他是来自法国Alsace，好滑稽，我住在瑞士Basel经常去Alsace，唯一讲德语的法国大区，世界好神奇，可惜我对老头兴趣不大，和Mika更有意思。
当地早餐是papaya和cooked banana，有趣。Mika换上我的衣服，丰满的身材把我的衣服第一次撑起来；我们本来就是想随便转转，我带她看我跑过村子美景，就开始上山，虽然没有hiking route，我们都是超级好奇超级fit，被大自然美景吸引，就一直走下去。Mika警告我，有人看到我们上山，很不安全，当地人很多吸毒者，会为了一点钱铤而走险。可我被看到美景和晨跑灌了迷糊汤，认为这是个还算安全地方。Let us try the luck完全看运气，试图说服她和我一起继续hiking，就这么纠结着，直到.............
Sergio突然出现，瘦高个，看起来不像吸毒的，更像个打渔的没落户。Mika和他攀谈问安全情况，得知他要步行去另外一个村子参加candomble！Wow，另外一个不同的更地道的村子里的candomble，我心都颤抖了，请求Mika和我一起去，极尽各种甜言蜜语和威胁：这会儿回去看到我们的吸毒的会在回去路上等我们！Sergio也说不安全。Mika特无奈，只能和我们走了。
我告诉他们我被抢的经历和送劫犯到警察局，Mika认为我活着是God blessing，这对Sergio有警示作用，别对我们打什么注意！一个小时后，我们到了一个美丽村子：Boa Vista！坐落于深林深处，只有一个酒吧和足球场，对了，所有去过巴西地方都有足球场，足球文化深入人心；当地人都是黑黑肌肉强壮，烈日下赤脚踢球，上午开始喝酒，多么经典巴西农村景色，我不敢照相。
Candomble的casa简单而且树荫浓密，Sergio很得意他带来两个外国人：欧洲和中国，当地人问Mika中国是个国家吗？我说想吃水果，Sergio利索的爬到树上，摘下最大的jackfruit，就地甩开，瘫了一地，我最爱的浓郁的jaca，人生第一次这么香喷喷的肉敦敦的水果啊，我手嘴并用，把脑袋陷进去，撑到爆炸，非常伤心看到他们把剩下的扔到猪圈里，猪开始吃我到巴西吃到最好食物；对于当地人，这是最便宜的东西。
村子里所有娱乐就是唯一酒吧，搭个棚卖啤酒，我买了coco cola给Sergio，他贪婪的犹如喝琼浆的样子让我担心............我开始骑自行车乱逛，但不敢太远。回到Casa开始吃饭，都是肉，我只能吃beans，Mika开心死了，他们笑话我和猪爱吃的东西一样，我call.....
Candomble开始前，所有人都dress up，看起来完全不一样，host lady胖胖的一身白色，各种珠宝（真的假的？），指甲都图了白色，连Sergio都换上T恤，不再像是卖鱼的，人陆续到来，都很美美的隆重！
3点正式开始，一个男人以惊人的嗓音和能量高歌，恍如在纽约最trendy夜总会里，他就是Michael Jackson；只不过每个人无需entertain其他人，自己都在表演，若有人都在自我娱乐，超级high；God出现了，叫Olimare，是蛇的形态，分不出男女，完全是一种沉迷的状态，头顶一条蛇，闭着眼睛，犹如日本武士一般的舞步，逐渐疯狂，很多时候别人必须按住她他不至于疯狂到癫痫，能量小宇宙不可控制。God换了几次衣服，每次出来都手持不同武器，但完全没有意识舞动，前面有个手持铃铛的男人引路。如果God接近任何人，每个人都会交叉双手保护自己。这和头一天晚上Candomble如此不同，我感动好幸运可以参加两次，看到所有人都极度迷失当中，如果God迷住他们，他们也开始像God一样舞动；能量场巨大，唱歌的男人结束后另外一个老男人充满能量接力唱。
我一直疑惑多少是宗教使然，多少是party成分，持续观察他们，不得其解；也许是both，因为那么多准备和投入。正奇怪着，音乐嘎然而止，所有God和迷失的人开始吃吃喝喝，一副完全正常的样子，都没有过渡性；好吧，他们对我和Mika超级Nice，我拿出钱donate给Host Lady，胖女人，她很热情的收下了。
我开始担心回程的安全，叫Sergio去找车，没戏；Mika已经完全融入到吃的状态下，当我找到一个回程的男人迷住他答应送我们回去，叫她走，Mika超级不开心离开她的肉食；安全第一，我和带我们回去Edison热情洋溢聊天，他讲一点点英文，告诉我整个system完全靠donating捐助，会有人留下来meditating 21天，给些钱，这个古老的体系完美保留working perfectly；祝福他们！Edison告诉我，Salvador越来越violent，很多人躲到Cachoeira，更安全；我自己经历也如此，还没被抢过。
我和Mika结下了深厚的友谊，不亚于一起上战场的战友，她讲了很多对未见面巴西男友的痴迷，最重要还是问我如何赢得男人的心，我没男人，但很擅长赢得男人女人男不男女不女各色人种的心，就和她分享啦：
第一要 appreciate even small little things others doing for u 容易满足，别人为你做任何一件小事都要感恩；我很擅长让别人觉着自己很重要，尤其男人；第二是take others as priority别人更重要，只要我和别人一起，她他的需求比我更重要，我会尽量满足；所以我宁肯自己旅行历险世界，和别人一起我都要照顾他们；第三是involve but no judge只是参与从不干涉，我会对所有人提议和想法都踊跃参与和鼓励，但从不评判！
我必须承认，以上都是实话，但最重要还是要有钱又大方，我超级大方不知道自己有多少钱，所以赢得了Mika的身心两天两夜！不忍心告诉她实话，她没钱！
Mika得到我的心经，以为可以获得男友亲爱，结果...............这是下一轮的故事了。
Learning Journey
Salvador airport, finally relaxed.......
Monday, May 28, 2012 5:01 PM
Salvador airport 28th may 2012 1.30pm
Never feel so much more safe in airport before, finally got to wear my watch, take out the only bad left, and use the phone in public....did not realize all these basic things until got into trouble!
So the amazing culture experience starting when I saw Mika, she is from Austria and speak fluently Portuguese and Spanish working as a inter in Dannemann! Just nice to see somebody from a background closer and speak English, I was fascinated by the handmade cigar process there also. The company has a Swiss family owner and make the top quality cigar in a small own like Cachoeira...we chat a bit about Mika local life and activity and I was asking what should I do for Sunday, then invite her to join in me for Candomble in the evening. We realize she will have to stay with me in the hotel, so why not, I thought I was first time doing so inviting somebody just met then remember the Yellowstone experience with the Spanish girl Maria....must be something in the blood that I easily have the instinct about somebody I can trust:+)
The afternoon sun along the river is amazing, st. Felix is small and cute, with a relaxed atmosphere and seem safe...thought I was sitting by the bank waiting for Mika but watch out the environment...
Cachoeira is a nice little town, they call city, not many people in the main square and the convent hotel we stay is a nice historical place. The mass is taking place in front door church, such a nice beautiful event with fresh flower and signings. The corner cafe is a great place to have a dinner and weather can not be more perfect. Mika is quite a meat eater and I was with my favorite Açai again...
(on the plane, Avianca is a nice airline not like the one I took webjet...very simple like a typical brazilian hotel)
She is concerned about no money but I encourage her whatever she is up to, tks for her I got to see how local strong meat is served..l got to try the bean, tomato and favio?...a local staple food powder served, was regretful I ate the fries..anyhow the evening is nice and local people hanging around, feel different with Salvador the Terrible atmosphere in the raining evening of old town... We also tried Beiju, which is a white powder making into a cake then filling with coco and condensed milk, warmly served lovely to try. Mika has some amazing experience in terms of traveling and studying with work in different jobs and countries, she even speaks some basic Chinesewell with a few months working experience in taiwan, can not imagine I met somebody in deep Bahia no where to see anybody speaking English but then her!!! she is only 24 years old which reminds me my time starting in London, same age but completely inexperienced with world outside China and very narrow minded in a sense....open for everything though...
Just about time to meet the local guide Jose at 8pm and he tries to charge us double but I promise RS100....which eventually I figure out it is open for everyone not needed to pay...anyhow Jose is the only person speaking very poor English to show us, we first go for a drink, since candomblé starts at 10pm not 8pm, local time is flexible anyhow. We got to sit in front of a local culture group who dances amazing samba, which I did not realize it's Samba, been told it is local village people getting together every weekend and all mixture of old, young, slim and fat, but dance with amazing movement, guys play a hand drum so strong in rhythm with high enjoyment, they entertain themselves well! With Jose very broken English I understand there is 24 groups who rotate every weekend! Samba origins from Cachoeira!!! Famous from Rio though. Mika takes some local liquor masaka? Smells very strong alcohol! She never stays in the city as loving outside with only bus connection so it turns out a fresh experience for both of us.
We climb up some residential area to candomblé casa, some residential houses with veyr loud music like a night club, it is all over brazil like this sometimes they put a big hifi back of the car and park it with loud music on the street. they love loud music!
Out of the slope of some casas we saw this candomblé place, small but fully decorated with paper and drawing on the wall, some crowds there already and a lot in white clothes some dress so nicely, hardly imagine in their normal look of daytime! We sit in front, being told able to photo and video whatever....an tall big guy, who is main host as priest, with a small instrument like a bell, on the ground they spreading some green leves which has nice herbal smell. More and more people dressing in white coming, then it starts!!! Just like in a dream, impossible to describe how people dance and turn around and around, some people looking in trance and completely or half unconscious, some young boys with such an angel look in the face and deep into it. The music is simple with drum but so loud and powerful like a whole orchestra. The steps look simple and movement is quite routined they seem ignoring outside world and into their own dream and imagination, I was shocked and find it hard to clear my mind, roaming with it. Then partially they invite the GOD, Orixás coming with a deep bended upper body, cross lines in the body, like a lion and head down, arms crossed, can not see his face, like a wild creature, people seem so respectful when he/she is getting closer to them. We saw his appearance twice but whole process continues. Both of us is a bit tired and also the music has some hypnotism effect, eve so loud, so we came out. Before the event and also during, they put some firecrackers from time to time to call for people....some young people hanging there, seem enjoy this tradition?
We thought back hotel but amazing to see whole crowds in the square we were, of course for a drink, , mika is always chatting with local people with veyr good accent in my ears, I am fascinated to see how local young people drink and dress, all woman well exposed of their breasts and legs, so proud of their bodies. They all drink this Schin local beer and smoke, a local band in a very messy bar playing loud music but every bar is putting loud music even cars around. Local suco of manga is good but contains a lot of sugar as I drink it...we back hotel sleep at 12.30pm. Hotel is best in local standard but so basic...not maintained at all! Before falling sleep we chat and knowing Mika has a brazilian boy friend...
27th sunday morning I was up to see sunlight, feel safe to run. Got to pass villages, less people hanging around with bird in cage, quite funny. I feel I can go forward since bad guys might not get up early:+)still keep eyes on everything around me, it is very foggy along the river but misty with roaster singing, if not because of distracted by safety it is indeed very pleasant country side to jog. Houses are poor and simple but with different colors, natural beauty. I did not go too far in the village side and back to river side, cross the bridge to st. Felix, passing Dannemann and railway then back. The court yard in convent is so nice with the view of the church, feel so many nice memories of stretching all over the places. Breakfast with fresh papaya and cooked bananas, obviously a normal way of eating it...a local yam like food with a lot of fibers. An old guy there to talk, who mixes portuguese, Spanish, French and German...turns out he is from Alsace how funny is that! We said to have a walk in the town center, but one way leading another we were in the uphill of village top. Both of us have this curiosity to discover more, even without knowing hiking route at all we somehow walk in a path which is so pretty we just go on and on, Mika told me it is not very secured as people saw us passing by and some people in drug is very dangerous, but she also told me it is very safe village, both are true, it is really just a luck try! Even did not prepare for a long walk, we start to enjoy the walking path until we met a local old guy, Sergio? Mika is able to chat and find out he is up to another village for candomblé. Wow, another village candomblé, my whole interests are arisen there is no better option than another authentic candomblé, even better it is in village: Boa Vista. Sergio said two hours walking and keep on warning us not safe for two of us walking along the path, I was not concerned much as people look more friendly than Sao paulo and Salvador, after robbing once I was more alert but also judging the environment more correctly...I am happy eventually Mika is up to it, we head along, it was not two hours walk at all, a nice one hour walk with good chat about our travelling experience and my robbery story we end up in boa vista at 11.20am. It is a small village in center of green field, very pretty. Local people hanging in the only bar there to drink beer, watching young guys playing football, they all having very strong muscles fully dark skinned, some without shoes on, good player under a hot sun. It is a classical village Sunday pleasure picture, I dare not take picture there...
We found candomblé casa immediately, Sergio is happy to see us, we watch them how to prepare the event, cooking is taking place. They are all warm and happy to see us, Mika can communicate well with them I just hang around. A Guy who is said to be host of house, show us the places which is small and simple. But we got most amazing jaca, jackfruit in my life: Sergio climbs up the very tall jaca tree, easily, pick up a huge jaca which is so rich and fruity, I never had such a wonderful jaca feast in my life, comparing with Philippine this is way too much better. Use my finger directly eat it, like a big earring of each seed with the meat, I was a bit hesitate when they ask me to wash my hand, and most disappointed when they through the whole jaca to the huge pig!!! Who starts to eat my best food:+) obviously for them this is the most common cheap thing u can get locally...
We walk to the village, only fun thing there is hanging in the bar, I just enjoy the sun and view, Sergio is happy that I bought him coco cola....was not much to do and candombléstarts only 3pm instead of 1pm as Sergio said, which means that Mika can not go home in the eve which I offers her to stay another night. It is such a simple life there local men just hanging around drinking beer, I tried to bike a bit but not very far, also feel a bit lazy under the heat. Sergio tries to hire a car to take us back after candomblé...
Back to casa we were offered the food, everything is meat besides my beans, Mika is happy and I eat a lot of beans....all dressed up with again complete different look, even Sergio dress in his jeans and blue shirt, not like a poor fishmen anymore...host lady is in poppy white lace dress with a lot of jewelry and even get her nails in white....
It starts around 3pm with small crowd, the guy who sings is just amazing with his high voice and energy. I feel he is like a party boy in a trendy club, he is the star! Not exactly proper metaphor, but the whole event is like a self entertainment what we do in mordant world, people play for fun of yourself not for a typical show, they are having fun themselves, most people participating rather than watching...the god is olimaré? Who is son/daughter of orixas representing as a snake, but when god is showing up it is a trances woman, with closed eyes, in a very martial style of dressing, dance energetically in variable forms, getting more and more big movements and sometimes others have to hold her to calm down her energy....she changes clothes a few times and also holding different "weapon" to come out, seems without any conscientious at all, dance a a very devoted way, others are following or sometimes just a guy in front with bell to lead her direction. When she is getting closer to the observers, they put their hand, seem to control or protect themselves? This candomblé is so different with night before, and people all more less involved, and they seem pass the energy also as the other start to dance like the god after they being taken.....even a guy I met who speaks some basic English, got into a god solder like dress starting to dance, but he teaches dance as said, so I am not surprised he can dance....
They seem really enjoy the whole event, particular the key singer, and another old guy to join the singing later on....I was very much in wonder how much is for religious how much is for fun or party in a way I feel it...might be a mixture of both as the whole event last quite long with preparation and after it they all start eat and chat, the god and other dances appear immediate as normal, not even a transition needed....at 5.30pm just about I am getting enough they finish, I been told finish at 10pm though....I was trying to show a small nice gesture with some money as they have treated us so nicely, good that host lady takes it happily.
Not surprise that no car is coming and Mika is a bit upset that I did not take the offer of eating food there....rather just what to leave...luckily the guy Edison, who backs to the city and give us a lift after their feast!!! I understand it is a event donating by whoever stays in casa "meditating" for 21 days.....might be completely mistaken but it seems the community works perfectly in this way. He evens went to Japan for performance many years ago...wow! They all said to use Salvador is getting more and more violent and they prefer Cachoeira as it is safe...I share the feeling with my short stay....
Got my longing açai which I kind of my food, last one and luckily I can find things I love in every country I travel to, vegetarian is not popular here:+). Even Sunday eve is still popular with people around, we back hotel to enjoy some quite moment, share photos of family feeling closer to understand Mika better, she is a strong girl with strong opinion....think about when I was 24 she is doing so much more...
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