黄河源的骑行ridingontheoriginalheadwatersareaofYellowriver

the day I rode into Marduo where was the original headwaters area of Yellow river . bumped into two long distance foreign cyclists ,a couple Czech and French , Ondrej and Diane .玛多是黄河的发源地,在玛多县我遇到了两个骑长途自行车的车手,她们是一对情侣捷克人和法国人,昂德瑞吉和黛安。



who were at the outside of a shop and Internet cafe, while I went out from Internet cafe,who should be an hour later than me reached Marduo . hard to meet cyclists on this route and foreigners more less . so we chatting at the street ,who were going the same direction as me and destination was Xining .now they want to buy some supplies and want to do some Internet stuff .they planning to go to lake Erlinghu the original headwaters land of Yellow river ,and attempt to set up camp at the Yellow rivers side for this evening. I think that should be a good place but wasn't my initial plan because I had seen many lakes in northern Tibet one month before ,so lakes have been not attract me too much .now I should consider if I make it with companys ,and which was not too far and not any up hill . after a while we start and set off .她们在一家商店和网吧外面,我刚刚从网吧出来,他们应该比我晚一个小时到达了玛多。在这条路上很难遇到骑车的人及外国人。在街上我们聊天,他们从四川成都买的单车经石渠、玉树过来,他和我都是同一个方向,他们目的地是西宁。现在他们想买一些补给品和想去做一些上网的东西。但她们无身份证,不能上网,我用自己的身份证帮了他们一把。她们也计划去鄂陵湖,黄河的源头区域, 并尝试晚上将扎营在黄河边上。我认为那应该是一个好地方但不是我最初的计划,因为在一个月前我在藏北已见过太多的湖泊,因此湖泊已经对我没有很大的吸引。现在我在考虑是否我应该找些同伴一起前往,它并不是太远,并且没有什么上山。有开车载客的当地藏族司机导游过来和我们聊,他告诉我,扎陵湖里面都是无人区,是个狼窝,你们一定要小心。过了一段时间后, 我们就开始出发了。

soon started raining and it seems to turn to more heavy ,with the abandoned big building at the right hand not far from the road , Ondrej and Diane waves and call me get in ,we all pitch tent in the building ,good place the shelter could protect us from the rain .I almost camping outside these days so this building gave me a peace place.不久就开始下起雨,似乎雨下得越来越厉害,有一间废弃的大建筑物在路边不远的地方,昂德瑞吉和黛安挥手叫我进去,我们都在大厦里扎帐篷,很好的庇护所保护了我们免受雨淋, 我这些天来几乎一直露营在外面,这间建筑物给了我们一个和平安宁的地方。

we cooking evening and sitting around the fire in the dark , Ondrej taken out three cans of beer from his bag . the food was cooking which mixed with potato、 cabbage 、eggs 、sweet potato and noodles .and you never imagine Ondrej take out a ukulele and to play and singing ,which was very interesting . (music from classical Europe Czech folk music) very wonderful and touching ,I very like this ancient Europe music atmosphere ,and

This is the first time for me to listen the real Ukulele music from a man Playing, impressive ! it could made spirit peace and calm .an interesting evening three country's person were cooking、 drinking、 chatting 、 playing ukulele around the fire in an abandoned big building .

Ondrej perhaps was a scientist I thought and he do a pose like using a microscope, Diane was a teacher , they were living at the France border.

我们做饭晚,在黑夜里围坐在火旁,昂德瑞吉从他的包袋里取出三罐啤酒。烹饪食物是混合着土豆,白菜,鸡蛋、红薯的面条, 你从未想象得到昂德瑞吉竟然拿出尤克里里,弹奏和唱歌,这是非常有趣的事。(音乐来自欧洲古典的捷克民间音乐)非常美妙动听,我非常喜欢这种古老的欧洲音乐气氛,我第一次听到来自真人弹出的真正欧洲古典音乐,印象深刻 ! 这可以使人的精神和平和安静。一个有趣的晚上,三个国家的人在一个废弃的大建筑里围着火堆做饭,喝酒,聊天,弹琴。

昂德瑞吉可能是一个科学家,他用像摆显微镜姿势的动作来告诉我他想说的内容,因为我手机在羌塘丢了无法翻译,但她们也没有手机。黛安是一个老师,他们住在法国边境。

we chatted a lot of stuff,food、 tea、 cycling stuff …… who were very interesting in the routes of Tibet on the bike and they were wonder if Tibet opened now and the past for foreign cyclists .

they seem to almost completely not understand chinese. they teached me how to sounds "egg "with French and Czech ,we chatted about "GSM " I don't known what it was,later I seen what they point it turned out that it was "味精". I told them some simple Chinese" 面粉、 玉米粉 、斤 、味精、白菜 ……",they hate GSM very much ,so now they could speak "不要味精” in Chinese restaurant . (11days later we met again in Laga ,we drink at riverside they teach me "cheers" with French and Czech .

我们聊了很多东西,食物,茶,自行车相关的东西......,他们对骑车去西藏的路线非常感兴趣,以及西藏现在和过去是否对外国自行车爱好者开放。

他们似乎完全不懂中文。他们教我如何发音用法国和捷克语去说“鸡蛋”, 我们聊到“GSM”但我不知道是什么,后来我看到他们拿着方便面的味精佐料,其实他们想指出的最终结果是“味精”。我告诉他们一些简单的中国话“面粉,玉米粉,斤,味精,白菜……”,他们拿出笔和薄要记住是怎么发音,因为他们有时要买一斤或半斤的什么食材,他们讨厌GSM, 所以现在如果去到中国餐厅他们会用中国话说“不要味精”。我在湖边做面疙瘩时,我记得最深的是,他教了我这一句单词,叫“ Dumpling”.(11天后我们又在拉加乡见面,我们在河边喝酒,他们教我法语和捷克语的“干杯”。

who were back to Laga by car ,join their friend's wedding . story was that,when they riding to Anyemaqen just blocked by local police below the pass , Anyemaqen area are not allow foreigners riding and they been took to Maqin in the police car, when they reached Maqin happen to met and known a Laga English teacher, so when they rode and reached in Xining, the teacher was wedding and called them join his wedding,so we could met again.)(after 3 days we met again on a up hill,

who were back to Xining on the teacher's car , it's very hard to met three times on the road as far as the cyclists .)他们是坐车回到拉加,参加他们朋友的婚礼。故事是这样的,当他们骑行到阿尼玛卿时[青海的神山],刚好当地警方经过,被他们以不允许外国人在阿尼玛卿下骑车为由, 把她们带上往玛泌去的警车上,当他们到达玛泌时碰到并认识了来自拉加乡的英语老师,所以当他们骑到了西宁,这位老师结婚,叫他们回去参加他的婚礼。又过了3天以后,我正在上山的路上,那位老师正载着她们回西宁的路上,又遇见我,他们停下车跟我打招呼,于是我们又再一次见面。

她们正坐着老师的车回西宁的路上,在路上骑自行车的人竟然能在路上遇到三次,这确实让人想不到。)

next morning was a nice day,we set off in the warm bright sunshine. the road was asphalt but after 30km or so,it deteriorated into awful dirt washboards road ,riding very not easy.

a wide plain with wetland、 Yellow river and the grassland ,grassland was gentle and beautiful with wild donkeys on the not distance .

Ondrej and Diane were faster than me, when I reached the lake it had almost been near sunset ,set up tent at lake side .

a wonderful night ,beautiful lake , stary sky 、without wind 、very quiet just only slightly waves noise and a few wild ducks sounds in midnight ,great ! which I think where was one of the best campsite for me in my all trips .

Ondrej play ukulele in next morning ,

(musician at the lake side )

sure enough ,lake Erlinghu pretty beautiful and no let me disappointing .        July 2015.

次日的早上天气很好,我们在明媚的阳光下出发了。这条路初段是柏油路,但30多公里后就变成了可怕的搓衣板路,骑起来很不容易,每个搓板凸起的高度是离奇的有将近二十公分,这几乎使我丢掉了向前的欲望。

广阔的平原,湿地,黄河和草原,草原是柔和和美丽的,野驴就在不远的地方。

昂德雷吉和黛安娜骑得比我快,当我到达湖边时,已经快日落了,他们在湖边搭起了帐篷。

一个美妙的夜晚,美丽的湖水,满天的星星,没有风,非常安静,只有轻微的波浪声和几只野鸭在午夜发出的叫声,太棒了! 我认为那是我所有旅行中最好的露营地之一。昂德雷吉第二天早上在湖边弹着尤克里里

(湖畔乐师)

果然,美丽的鄂陵湖没有让我失望。

重庆摩驾


2015年七月

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